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Tuesday, 29 January 2013

Toe Rings

I have been wearing rings on my toes for many years. I suppose I started wearing them as I gradually stopped wearing the ones in my hands as I was gardening more and more and not often practical to wear or if I was wearing them I risked to leave them behind when washing my hands ... therefore wearing something, albeit on my feet was a way of sporting some jewellery.
I found the 1st of my toe-rings on a small street market stall in London. Only a few stalls in a street near Shaftesbury Avenue, which I happened by change on a week day – I don’t even remember why I was there.
I loved it. I am still wearing it. It is a nice band of silver with some a real small motive. I got used to wearing a toe ring pretty quickly and after that summer I decided I wanted to have another one for the other foot. In those days ankle bracelets were very fashionable and you think it would have been easy to find also toe rings... not the case. I happened upon my 2nd toe ring on one of the stalls of the market in Chancery Lane, we used to get there in our lunch break from the City and one summer I found one, not the best, but decent enough for me to buy it. However it was never very good: the metal, even though was supposed to me silver, would get dark very soon, and eventually snapped in two a few years back.
For a long time I could not find any toe rings and if I found one none that I liked. Until I went to Morocco one summer. In Agadir, I found a shop that sold local crafts at a fix-price and I found my next toe-ring. I bought it and wore it right away to the delight of the shop owner/assistant. As the ring was so comfortable, I decided to buy another one and to try to wear two rings on two different toes on the same foot. It worked; they were comfortable to wear and did not clash with each other causing pain. Before the end of that holiday I had bought several more, which I have given as presents and some form part of the Valentine Day Gift Ideas now.
A few summers ago – in Tunisia – I was looking to replace the toe ring which broke (see above) and I found it in a little shop outside the compound of my hotel in Hammamet. They had quite a few of them and some were really nice. As it happened after a lot of thinking I bought the first one that caught my eye. A little silver band with a small dolphin. I cannot remember the exact meaning of the dolphin for the Tunisian. I have checked it and the dolphin has been used since Greek mythology. Also nowadays is used in tattoos. Here are a links to website where you can read more if interested in the symbolism of the dolphin.

Last summer I met an Irish woman and she too was wearing toe rings. Her rings were really nice and I was interested in knowing where she had got hers. We got chatting and it turned out she wears them all year round. So this year (or rather last) when the first cold days settled in I kept on wearing my toe rings. Went to the swimming pool, wore them with tights (and they did not ladder them) and now I wear them with all sorts of close shoes even my walking boots!! (Although when really cold I prefer to take them off as my toes shrink and the rings are then too big for them!).
What I have learnt over the years and with the experience of wearing toe rings, is that toe rings to be comfortable have to be in real silver, have an opening – which allows you to place it over the large bits of your toes and then tightening it to fit the middle, slim bit of the toe – and be fairly solid without excessive protuberances.
Why, you ask? Feet get a lot of battering and any jewellery has to be strong enough to sustain the pressure the foot applies on ground, shoes and so forth.
Silver is easy to clean, doesn’t wear off and therefore your rings will always look the best. You want to be able to see them when you look down to your feet... vanity??

toe rings

toe rings on feet, front
I prefer mine not to have any big protuberances or stones as rings do turn from time to time, especially if cooler and your foot shrinks a little, and there is nothing worse or more painful than a sharp bit in between two toes – think of a ring with a stone and having a handshake that is very hard and squeeze your hand. Painful! Imagine the little toe in a similar situation (I am not saying someone is going to give you a foot shake!)
As I was saying I haven’t found very easy to buy toe rings. One summer the Tunisians – crafty people! – upon my inquiring would take me around to their shop only to be shown normal finger rings... they think they are clever:-~
As I was writing this article I have also done a little research and found that toe rings are a relatively new item of accessories used in the western world (that explains it!) and usually only one ring is worn on a single foot. However in India (I have not been there yet) it is something associated with a bride and they wear matching ones on each foot. Click here should you want to read more about it.

If you would like to purchase a toe ring, click on the link or go to www.craftsoftheworldonline.com and contact us.

Friday, 25 January 2013

Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day is a day internationally recognised in most countries, especially in the West.  Also know as Saint Valentine’s Day or the Feast of Saint Valentine, it is celebrated on 14th February mainly in the West (calendar set by the Western Christian Church) or on 6th July / 30th July in the East (calendar set by the Eastern Christian Churches).  This makes me think you learn something new every day (I am sure we celebrated it on 14th February when we were in Japan together with the Japanese all over!)!!??

No matter which day it is celebrated around the world, Valentine’s Day is now universally associated with Love, Romanticism and Affection.  However, things were a little different when they started up in Roman times.
Before it became a huge commercial enterprise with flowers at overinflated prices and other gifts donated all over… Valentinus, a roman Christian Gnostic theologian was imprisoned by the Romans for performing weddings for soldiers (who were not allowed to marry).  While in prison – legend has it – that he healed the daughter of his jailer and when sentenced to death his last written words to the young lady were: ‘from your Valentine’ before his death on 14th February 269.  Valentinus was considered a martyr and was eventually given sainthood. 

In Roman times the celebration of Valentine’s Day did not have any romantic connotation.  Fast forward a bit and in the Middle Ages, XIV century, when the poet Geoffrey Chaucer started the romantic side of the celebration and the tradition of courtly love started to flourish Chaucer wrote a poem to celebrate the 1st anniversary of the engagement of Kind Richard II of England and Anne of Bohemia (both 15 year old!) with the poem Parlement of Foules in 1382 where he mentions “love birds”:
For this was on seynt Volantynys day
Whan euery bryd comyth there to chese his make.

["For this was on Saint Valentine's Day, when every bird cometh there to choose his mate"]
(Information obtained from Wikipedia)

By the XV century Valentine’s day had developed into an occasion where lovers gave each other presents to express their love: flowers, confectionery and - greeting cards (that became known as ‘valentines’) - that from the XIX century started to get produced mechanically in great quantities - were all recognised as presents fit to declare love to a loved one.  Cupids figurines, heart shaped items and even doves are nowadays most popular images on cards to show love on Valentine’s cards.
The practice of sending a Valentine’s card by post became more popular when in the XX century became cheaper the cost of a stamp, making sending Valentine cards more popular.  The practice of mailing Valentine cards made it easier to send anonymous cards and some began to appear with ‘racy’ verses in the then prudish Victorian’s times.

From the middle of the XX century exchanging cards went on to also giving gifts such as roses and chocolates, packed in heart-shaped boxes and wrapped in red paper.  In the 1980’s the Diamond industry pushed for jewellery to be given to loved ones and in the XXI century - with the advent of the internet – e-valentine cards have become very popular, with more than 15 million being sent every year.

Usually we think Valentine’s Day is a day to be celebrated only if you are part of a couple.  Years ago I learnt from an American friend to celebrate the day with your ‘romantic loved one’ and to extend the celebration to the rest of the family including your children and close friends.  It certainly puts a different and more social spin on celebrating the day when you do not have that ‘romantic loved one’ and make it a day to be positive rather than try to delete it from your thoughts and diary! 

 

At Crafts of the World Online we remember to celebrate the day by sticking with tradition – heart shaped objects – and also by ‘stepping out of the box’ and offering different ideas to buy for our loved ones – being a lover, a friend or ourselves - like candles and friendship’s bracelets, all at very affordable prices.
At the end of the day, it is the thought that counts and who gave or sent it to us.  Well, that’s my feeling anyway!


Happy St Valentine’s Day to you all! ©

Monday, 21 January 2013

Textile co-operative in a Tunisian village

I love reading travel guides of the countries I visit, 'Lonely Planet' and 'The Rough Guide' are usually best for me. Anyway, in one of these or both I found that in a Tunisian village - not far from where I was staying - there was a textile's co-operative where locals were working and producing products for the local and foreign markets. Even better, the village - Beni Khiar - had a sunday market! Yuppiee!! And so I set out to go to this village to find the co-operative.  I prefer to travel with public transport as a. it is cheaper; b. you get to meet the locals, see how they live/behave, etc... Sunday buses in Tunisia are not as frequent as other days of the week (nothing different from UK or other parts of EU, as far as I know), which meant my bus was late and when I got to Nabeul I saw the bus for Beni Khiar slip under my nose. :-( ... and the next bus was a couple of hours later!
So I set out to look for a taxi (I am not very fond of taxi or their drivers ...ssssssh, don't tell anyone!) and - having found one - I got in and shortly after we arrived in Beni Khiar. I must say, it was not very far at all - if you know where you are going - however a little bit too far to walk in the hot sun, even at 10.30am. Amasingly, although just outside the main town of Nabeul, capital of the Cape Bon area, Beni Khiar was so remote and rural!

Beni Khiar

As I said earlier, Beni Khiar is not big and it is on the outskirts of Nabeul, almost following on from it. When I arrived, the market was in full swing. Nothing different from what I'd seen in Beni Khalleb a week or so before - more on this in another blog - only smaller and less interesting. Still, I went through it - without being mobbed - quite nicely.


  
Market & Mosque in Beni Khiar


Police Station & market crowd
Having a chat while shopping
   Local wares  Portico in Beni Khiar


 
 
My reason for being in Beni Khiar was to find this co-op that I had read about on the travel guides. they said it was a place famous for wool and its weavers and that the co-operative was also selling its products directly.
The taxi driver dropped me in the middle of the village, not really knowing where the co-op was or caring about it. Very helpful! I started in the direction the taxi driver had indicated and soon found myself nearing the end of the village by the main street. Armed with my guides and phrase books (even my broken French was at times too much for the locals which only spoke Tunisian lingo) I approached some women in a shop. After much confabulating among themselves, they indicated back to the centre of the village, towards the market.
Back I walked, when I got back to the main square I saw the police station! What better place to ask for directions!?! So I went in ...


The ladies in the shop had indicated down the road. At the main square the road split hence the decision to pop in the Police Station. Nothing like you would expect. A large cavernous bare room with a wooden table by the door (for the breeze) and two people (cannot remember if they wore uniform) smoking and chatting and not terribly interested when they saw me entering...after much talking (among themselves) and asking other passers by and insistance (mine) that this co-op must be in their village as the tourist guides said so; finally, one of them remembered that there was a place with a textile co-op, they indicated the way and after more asking, I found the place I was looking for!
The walk to this place took me past many butchers shops, the 1st one I nearly hit the head of a huge cow's head hanging by the entrance!


As a non-meat eater I was not too impressed, and lets not talk about the smell of dead meat coming out of the fully opened fronted butcher' shops!

 

The Textile Co-operative

It is a shame I did not take a picture of the outside (this here is a scan from their leaflet).
 

There was a large wall at both sides, with some sort of mural showing the looms and materials... however somehow it was not as striking and did not stand out, hence missed (as being at the beginning of the village, I had gone by it in the taxi earlier on). There were no gates, so I approached.

The ground was a garden full of orange and other citrus trees. It reminded me of an old school
in the 60's - a bit decrepit - and I was expecting to be challenged any minute as a trespasser.   Instead, I reached a couple of buildings, one with a door opened, which I approached tentatively (see picture "Outside of co-op in Beni Khiar"). Walking in, I felt like an alien and also felt like stepping into a time machine, back in time. Inside the building there weren't many people, I asked if that was the co-op and a young-ish man came out of one of the rooms and - speaking part English and part French - we established I was in the right place. Having asked if I could look around, my host asked why I wanted to see the place. I told him the co-op was mentioned in my tourist guide and I was a tourist and interested, as I had come over specifically for this place. I am sure the young man and the other men around him thought I was mad! Anyway, he happily told me I could go and have a look upstairs and, when coming back down, he would show me the warehouse (which turned out to be a small room downstairs).   I walked upstairs and I found myself in a large room (the whole length and width of the building) full of looms, 15-18 of them.
 
 Looms at the textile co-op

The old fashioned looms were fascinating. In the room were ... men working at their loom and weaving various types of cloths. Some incredibly attractive to the eye (the cloths not the men! :-) ). 
 
 Man at his loom

Absolutely fascinating! Once again it was like stepping in the time machine and being back to the industrial revolution! How incredible to think that in this day and age people still make cloths in the old fashion way!!

Apparently the co-operative was set up in 1957 (as the leaflet I was later given told me). The men at the looms were really friendly and not at all bothered by my being there, they kept on weaving and said 'good morning' as I was wondering. They were also kind enough to let me take pictures (a lot of people in the Muslim world believe having a picture taken deprives you of something [soul]), this meant I was able to walk around taking picture and videos (see later) through the room.

At the end of the room, sitting on the floor was a very old man, he was working at a large sort of wheel - initially I thought it was a primitive fan! Infact it was something completely different.


He had lots of small cones, no longer than 10-15 cm and hollow inside. He put one on something pointed, sticking out of the wheel, he then wrang around it 4 different coloured threads - coming from wool cones sitting by his side - and with the help of the wheel/fan he spun the 4 threads together on the cone that was acting as a pipette. I suppose he was creating a twisted thread that was then used on the looms to weave the cloths. He seemed totally oblivious to me - or totally ignored me - I tried to film the whole scene... it is not the best as I was trying to be very inconspicuos.


 

In another part of the room, behind some looms and weavers, there were more of these 'wheels' and another man doing the same thing. He was almost hidden away.
As I was walking back downstairs I saw one of these wheel closer and it was made of wood and what looked like some kind of skin tightly stretched around it (see picture "Wheel and wool reels"). Very ingenous!
 
Downstairs, my 'guide' showed me the storeroom (rather than warehouse) as promised, which was full of types of materials, rugs, bed covers, satchels, cushions etc.
 
 Traditional overcoat  Satchel bags
 
 
I would have loved to buy a bit of everything. Some of the colours were very bright and fetching. However because they were made of wool and linen, and bulky - had to be mindful of the weight allowance on the plane - I was only able to buy three cushion covers (now sold in our online shop).
 
 Blue  Tunisian co-op cushion - green

I do hope that I will be able to get more stock if there is request for these. [I was told they do not have internet, so all communications need be done by mobile (hopefully) and snail mail] I'd love to be able to stock more of their products, they were lovely and some incredibly attractive!
 
I was told that the co-operative is mainly operated by men. Men weave and use the looms. Women work from home and - at my incredulous question of where the looms could fit in their small homes or did they have a small version of it - I was told the women cut, sew with colourful stitches and embroider creating the end products. All their products are produced manually.

Friday, 18 January 2013

Amber – What is Amber - Facts and Useful Information

Amber - What is Amber


Amber is fossilized tree resin (not sap), which has been appreciated for its colour since Neolithic times. Amber is used as an ingredient in perfumes, as a healing agent in folk medicine, and as jewellery. Because it originates as a soft, sticky tree resin, amber sometimes contains animal and plant material as inclusions. Amber occurring in coal seams is also called ‘resinite’, and ‘ambrite’ when found specifically within New Zealand coal seams.
The English word ‘amber’ derives from the Arabic anbar, Medieval Latin ambar and Old French ambre. The word originally referred to a precious oil derived from the Sperm whale (now called ambergris). The term was extended to fossil resin circa 1400, and this became the main meaning as the use of ambergris declined. In French "ambre gris" was then distinguished from "ambre jaune"; ‘ambre gris’ (gray amber) was ambergris; ‘ambre jaune’ (yellow amber) was the fossil resin we now call amber.
Theophrastus mentioned ‘amber’ - possibly the first historical mention of the material - in the 4th century BC. The Greek name for amber was ηλεκτρον (electron) and was connected to the Sun God. The modern terms "electricity" and "electron" derive from the Greek word for amber. Pliny the Elder mentioned the presence of insects in amber and mentioned it in his ‘Naturalis Historia’, this lead him to guess that amber might have been liquid at some point and able to cover the bodies of insects. Hence he named the substance succinum or gum-stone. The word "electricity" is derived from the Greek name for Amber, electrum. This is because amber can acquire an electric charge when rubbed. Thales described this magical property in about 600 BC - and it remains one of the most useful methods to identifying real amber in gold and silver jewellery. There have always been claims that amber rosaries and amulets can actually conduct current, discharging excess energy in the body. Amber has long been worn and carried by men, as a talisman against sexual impotence.
Beads of resins from tree, in time they will become amber
Amber will soften if heat is applied and it will eventually burn. This lead to it being named Bernstein or burn-Stone is German. If heated above 200°C, amber will decompose, producing an "oil of amber" and leaving a black residue which is known as "amber pitch" - which when dissolved in oil of turpentine or in linseed oil - forms "amber varnish".

How was it formed?

Molecular polymerization, resulting from high pressures and temperatures produced by overlying sediment, transforms the resin first into copal. Sustained heat and pressure drives terpenes* off, resulting in the formation of amber. Copal is an immature resin and it is sometimes passed off as amber. It is said to be immature because not all the volatile terpenes have left the resin via geological processes over millions of years. Therefore it is younger in age than true amber. [*Terpenes and terpenoids are the primary constituents of the essential oils of many types of plants and flowers].

Botanical origin

Fossil resins from Europe fall into two categories: the famous Baltic ambers and another. Fossil resins from the Americas and Africa are closely related to the modern genus Hymenaea (plant of the legumes family); while Baltic ambers are thought to be fossil resins from ‘Japanese Umbrella-pine’ used to live in north Europe.
Historically, the coast around Königsberg in Prussia was the world's leading source of amber. After 1945 the territory around Königsberg was turned into Kaliningrad Oblast, Russia, where it is now systematically mined. About 90% of the world's extractable amber is still located in Russia on the Baltic Sea and pieces of amber torn from the seafloor are cast up by the waves, and collected by hand, dredging or diving. Elsewhere, amber is mined, both in open works and underground galleries. Amber from the Baltic Sea has been extensively traded since antiquity.
Small fragments that used to be thrown away or used only for varnish, are now used on a large scale in the formation of "amberoid" or "pressed amber". The pieces are carefully heated with exclusion of air and compressed into a uniform mass by intense hydraulic pressure. The product is extensively used for the production of cheap jewellery and articles for smoking.

Geological record

The oldest amber recovered dates to the ca.320 million years ago. Other old amber specimens come from the Middle East: Lebanon and Jordan. This amber is roughly 125–135 million years old and is considered of high scientific value. Many remarkable insects and spiders were recently discovered in the amber of Jordan, including the oldest zorapterans, clerid beetles, umenocoleid roaches, and achiliid planthoppers. [Not sure I really want to know what they look like!]. Relics of flora occur as inclusions trapped within the amber while the resin was still fresh, suggesting relations with the flora of Eastern Asia and the southern part of North America.

Paleontological significance

Amber is a unique preservation medium, preserving otherwise unfossilisable parts of organisms - even their soft tissues - which are helpful in the reconstruction of ecosystems and organisms. As seen in the movie Jurassic Park, mosquitoes can still have the blood of their victims inside them, sealed and kept intact forever. It's no wonder Amber is a symbol of eternity and eternal divinity!
Amber sometimes contains animals or plant that became caught in the resin as it was secreted. Insects, spiders and their webs, annelids, frogs, crustaceans, bacteria, marine microfossils, wood, flowers and fruit, hair, feathers and other small organisms have been recovered in ambers dating back to 130 million years ago.

Appearance

Amber occurs in a range of different colours. From the usual yellow-orange-brown associated with the colour "amber", to a whitish colour through to a pale lemon yellow, brown and almost black, even (very rarely) violet.
Much of the most highly-prized amber is transparent, in contrast to the very common cloudy amber and opaque amber. Opaque amber contains numerous minute bubbles.
Sometimes amber retains the form of drops and stalactites, just as it exuded from the ducts and receptacles of the trees.
Amber can be classified into several forms:
• Natural Baltic amber – gemstone which has undergone mechanical treatment only (for instance: grinding, cutting, turning or polishing) without any change to its natural properties;
• Modified Baltic amber – gemstone subjected only to thermal or high-pressure treatment, which changed its physical properties, including transparency and colour;
• Reconstructed (pressed) Baltic amber – gemstone made of Baltic amber pieces pressed in high temperature and under high pressure without additional components;
• Bonded Baltic amber – gemstone consisting of two or more parts of natural, modified or reconstructed Baltic amber bonded together with the use of the smallest possible amount of a colourless binding agent necessary to join the pieces.
Amber increases in value with the rarity and perfection of the entrapped object. Complete insect specimens are rare and command top price.
Copal, is also a tree resin but it hasn't fully fossilized to amber. It is usually only thousands of years old, instead of millions of years. There is strong debate about some deposits of African amber as to whether it is copal or true amber.

Use

Amber has been used since antiquity in the manufacture of jewellery and ornaments, and also in folk medicine. Amber also forms the flavouring of ‘aquavit’ and it is used as an ingredient in perfumes.

Jewellery

Amber has been used since the Stone Age, from 13,000 years ago. Amber ornaments have been found in Mycenaean tombs and elsewhere across Europe. Nowadays it is also used in the manufacture of smoking and glassblowing mouthpieces. Amber is most often set in gold and silver jewellery. Mediterranean countries started to trade in Amber for jewellery making as far back as 2500 BC. Amber from this period has been found 600 miles from its place of origin. Amber was very popular and highly valued in this time period, because it is softer than minerals and was easier to work with primitive methods.

Historic medicinal uses

Amber has long been used in folk medicine for its healing properties. Amber and extracts were used in ancient Greece for a variety of treatments through to the Middle Ages and up until the early twentieth century.

Scent of amber and perfumery

In ancient China it was customary to burn amber during large festivities.
Although, when burned amber does give off a characteristic "pine-wood" fragrance, modern products, such as perfume, do not normally use actual amber. This is due to the fact that fossilized amber produces very little scent. In perfumery, scents referred as “amber” are often created to emulate the opulent golden warmth of the fossil.
Ambergris is the waxy aromatic substance created in the intestines of sperm whales and was used in making perfumes both in ancient times as well as modern ones. The scent of amber was originally derived from emulating the scent of ambergris, but due to the endangered status of the sperm whale, the scent of amber is now largely derived from labdanum [Labdanum is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (conifers)]. The term “amber” is loosely used to describe a scent that is warm, musky, rich and honey-like, and also somewhat oriental and earthy. It can be synthetically created or derived from natural resins. When derived from natural resins it is most often created out of labdanum. Benzoin is usually part of the recipe. Vanilla and cloves are sometimes used to enhance the aroma.

Amber is technically not a gemstone or mineral

Early physicians prescribed amber for headaches, heart problems, arthritis and a variety of other ailments. In ancient times, amber was carried by travellers for protection. To the early Christians, amber signified the presence of the Lord. In the Far East, amber is the symbol of courage; Asian cultures regard amber as the 'soul of the tiger' and Egyptians placed a piece of amber in the casket of a loved one to ensure the body would forever remain whole.
It is worn for general good luck, financial stability and to ward off danger from witchcraft. It is rich in medicinal values and used for curing many chronic ailments.
The wearer must refrain from luxuries and temptations of life. It relieves of tensions and is good for those interested in social and humanitarian causes. It should be kept away from heat or sun.
Amber is highly recommended for those who often have to meet challenging situations and frustrating atmosphere. It is considered to brings a care free, sunny disposition, to promote good luck and success, and dissolve oppositions.
Healers use it for stomach, spleen and kidney complaints; joint problems and teething pain in babies.
The gemstone Amber is one of the birthstones listed for the Sun Sign for Taurus.
Powers attributed to amber include love, strength, luck, healing, and protection, calming for hyperactivity and stressed nerves, finds humour and joy. Legend says that Amber was believed to provide magicians and sorcerers with special enhanced powers.
Helps remove energy blockages, strengthens physical body. Excellent for enhancing consciousness. Amber represents the division between an individual's energy and cosmic energy, the individual's soul and the universal soul of all living things. It is the symbol of divinity. Ancient painters used the colour amber to denote the divine. The faces of gods and goddesses, heroes and saints were all painted amber.

How to recognise Amber

Several tests are known to determine whether your piece is real or not.
Baltic amber is considered the highest quality in the world. But because amber is a lightweight organic fossil resin, it is possible to imitate it by using lightweight plastics and synthetics. Some imitations are made with the purpose of creating false insect inclusions, rather than creating a false piece of amber in general. There are a few tests one can do to determine real amber from imitations.
Plastics are the most common amber imitations and can be distinguished from natural amber. Celluloid is composed of cellulose nitrate and camphor. Amber imitators of celluloid and glass can be distinguished from amber by the fact that when rubbed the imitation does not become electro-statically charged and gives off the odour of camphor. Amber becomes electro-statically charged when rubbed and like plastic both are warm to the touch and can be distinguished from glass, which is cool to the touch, heavier and has a higher specific gravity. The following tests are the most commonly available and easiest to perform. However care should be taken to avoid damage to the piece tested.

Static test
. This is the simplest and safest test. Amber is warm to the touch and when rubbed, it will become electro-statically charged and will attract lint & dust particles. This is what the ancient Greeks discovered and named it "electron", which is where we get the term "electricity".
It’s electric! Amber holds a charge of static electricity and was actually used to remove lint in earlier times. To see if your “amber” is static, place some small pieces of tissue on a flat surface. Rub the amber vigorously on the carpet or with a piece of velvet until it is warm and hold it closely above the tissue pieces. If the pieces of tissue are not attracted to the specimen, it is not amber. If tissue is attracted to the specimen, it may be amber.
Hot, hot, hot. Is your specimen warm or cold to the touch? Amber should feel warm when handled at room temperature.
Does it float? True amber floats in salt water. This is how it was discovered – floating on the Baltic sea. Amber is only slightly denser than saltwater, and can be carried vast distances by the sea. To see if your “amber” floats, dissolve two tablespoons of table salt in eight ounces of water. Drop your “amber” into the solution. If it sinks, it is not amber. If it floats, it is probably amber. This method only works if the amber is removed from its setting.
Pine fresh scent. Rub the specimen briskly on a piece of cloth until it gets warm, and then smell it. If it’s real amber, it should emit a mild pine or turpentine odor. If it smells like plastic or chemicals, it isn’t amber. Beware that if it has the right smell, it still may be copal.
The scratch test. Real amber has a hardness of approximately 2.5 on the Moh’s scale. This is quite soft, but your fingernail alone should not be able to scratch it. Try scratching your “amber” gemstone with your fingernail. If it makes a mark, it isn’t amber. If it doesn’t make a mark, it may be amber. This is an effective test in distinguishing copal from amber, as copal is very soft can be scratched with a fingernail.
Does it glow? Place your “amber” specimen under a short-wave ultraviolet light. If the specimen is fluorescence with a pale blue under the light, it may be amber. If it doesn’t glow at all, or glows a color other than pale blue, it is not amber. Copal doesn’t fluoresce.
Baby oil test. Drop your specimen into a clear glass of mineral oil (Johnson’s Baby Oil works fine). Mineral oil and amber have very similar refractive indexes. If the edges of the “amber” appear as a dark outline or light halo, the specimen is not amber. If it is difficult to distinguish the edges of the “amber”, it may be real.
Lick it. Wash the specimen with mild soapy water then rinse and dry thoroughly. Taste it – do you detect a chemical, strong, or unpleasant taste? If so, it isn’t amber. Remember, amber comes from the trees, so it shouldn’t taste unnatural or manmade. If the specimen has no taste (or one that is very subtle) it may be amber.
A Bug’s Life. If your specimen contains an insect or other animal, try to have it identified!!

Tuesday, 15 January 2013

Vegetable Silk (also known as Sabra, Cactus or Agave Silk)

If you search on the web for cactus silk or vegetable silk it is likely you get presented with a lot of silk plants!
 
Having purchased some cushions and a pouffe in Vegetable Silk from my Moroccan supplier, I was curious to find out more. It took me some time.
Cactus silk is also known as Agave silk, or vegetable silk or vegan silk and also as Sabra silk, the Moroccan name.
Some of the products made with this fiber are certainly different. Wherever you are going in Morocco, you are coming across little shops packed with tons of thread in myriad of colours,  shiny, bright colours with which buttons and trims finish off the traditional ‘djellaba’.
 
Man wearing traditional djellaba

 


 
However there are also items made in this vegetable-vegan silk in much more subtle colours and the end result is of understated and classic yet modern items of soft furnishing seen above.
 
I am running ahead of myself.  Let’s start at the beginning.
 

“Sabra” Cactus-Silk

Cactus silk or Sabra silk is a luxurious fabric made from the Agave Cactus in the capital of Morocco, Fes.
Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech - Cactus and agave plants
 
      Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech - Cactus and agave
 
Also known as Cactus silk, Sabra silk is a natural fiber harvested from sustainable sources of Saharan Aloe Vera Cactus (the Aloe Vera plant being part of the Agave family).
The fabric is a 100% vegetable silk blend of extracted filaments from the aloe cactus grown in Morocco. It is sought for its quality, strength and beauty since millennia. The process to produce sabra silk has not changed for centuries. Once the Cactus plant is collected from the long agave plants, the long spiky leaves are crushed and the fibres washed and hammered, then the leaves are soaked in water to separate the fibres & filaments and then these are spun and woven to make "silk thread" which are then dyed in different colours. The textile produced has a high elasticity and this makes Sabra-Silk free of wrinkles.
You might have come across - when walking through the narrow lanes of the Medina in Marrakech –men threading fine, almost invisible, fibers on spools. These are then twisted into thread by small battery powered twisters and tacked along the walls of the medina while they were being created. The colourful threads of the cactus silk are then sold in spools.
 
Cactus silk threads
 
Sabra Silk is hand-loomed in Morocco [See a picture of a weaver at work] and some of the products are created with strips of the silks alternate with camel's wool. Some have Chenille, and cotton yarn in contrasting colours which enhances the amazingly vibrant, almost metallic shine of the cloths. This long and time consuming process makes some of its products (cushions, rugs, textile) very expensive and at the same time pretty unique.
 
Silk Napkin Ties covered with Vegetable silk threads
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Items made of cactus/sabra silk can be washed at 30 degrees or dry-cleaned. It is safe to iron them with a low steam iron programme, although as they are almost wrinkle-free, this is hardly necessary...

If interested in the items shown in this Blog, please visit our shop on www.craftsoftheworldonline.com .





Thursday, 10 January 2013

Cedar Wood

Where does Cedar wood come from

Cedar wood comes from different trees that grow in different parts of the world and it’s used in different ways.
Most Cedar wood is aromatic, decay-resistant, fragrant, insect-repellent, and light-weight, primarily used to protect clothing from insects.
Cedar Treet
Cedar Tree
The Atlas Cedar is native to the Atlas Mountains in Algeria and in Morocco (the Rif, Middle Atlas and in the High Atlas). The Atlas Cedar is cultivated because it is more tolerant of dry and hot conditions than most conifers.
Cedarwood is now made into small items: boxes, tee-light holders,… the wood is very aromatic due to the high percentage of essential oil it contains. Wood carved balls placed among clothes are an excellent insect repellent.
From Cedar wood is distilled the essential oil which has calming & soothing properties, it is helpful in deepening meditation and strengthen focus (it is often used by Buddhist monks in Tibet).
The aroma of cedarwood is also believed to dispel gloomy thoughts, diffuse fear, dispel anger/ aggression and give courage.

Interesting facts on Cedar:

Cedar is a Semitic word: meaning the power of spiritual strength, and it represents a symbol of constant faith. It is one of the oldest aromatics used as temple incense. Cedarwood may also possibly be the first essential oil to have been extracted from a plant. The Egyptians used this oil extensively, particularly in the process of embalming and mummification, in cosmetics and by impregnating papyrus to protect them from insects. The wood was regarded as a symbol of strength, dignity and nobility; it was made into jewellery, furniture, sarcophagi and ships’ mast. The wood was so valued that Lebanon – main producer of the cedrus libani in antiquity - was incorporated into the Egyptian empire to ensure a regular supply.
Cedar Wood Trivet
Fatima Hand Trivet in cedar wood

Monday, 7 January 2013

Mulberry Paper – a brief history of its making


Mulberry paper is also called and known as Saa paper.

It is made of the bark of the mulberry tree which is a common tree growing is south-east Asia, Thailand and Pakistan. The tree grows very quickly and it is almost a weed. Its flowers produce a high content of pollen and are hard to escape if you are in the area at the time of their flowering and suffer from pollen allergy.
The mulberry tree is the main source of food for the silkworm, which produce high quality silk. The silkworms feed on the leaves of the tree. The paper is made from the bark of the tree and its leaves when the plant is matured and lost its appeal to the worms. Because it grows so quickly, the plant grows through a full circle in a very short time.
Bark and leaves are soaked in water and made softer. It then gets boiled in salted water to break down the cellulose cells in the plant. After a few hours boiling the mix is rinsed leaving the fibres with which the paper will be made.
The soaking and boiling of the fibres leaves them in a mixture of thickness that is then sorted in types: rough, delicate… and colours to produce different products. The delicate parts will come to form paper and the rough bits will be used to produce ropes or cardboards.
After the raw bark is soaked, cleaned, and treated for uniform color there still remain natural variations. The low-impact, handmade processing means that even after a few days of handling the material can still be grouped by hue and roughness. The most delicate and regular-hued segments are chosen for paper, while rougher and darker segments are destined for rope or thicker boards.
Once the fibres have been separated by thickness and colours, they start the journey to become the final product there are destined to. In the case of the lighter and more delicate fibres as paper.
It is important that same texture and colour fibres get mixed together for the consistency of the end product. The next step is for the fibres to be immersed in cold water and made into a pulp, which is often achieved by using a thresher.
When the fibres have been crushed and separated the colouring take place. This is done with traditional dyes added to the pulp when in cold water making it easier for the true colour to come through in the final product.
Once the pulp is dyed it is collected on light mesh screens immersed in the water and collecting the pulp as it reaches the surface of the water. This process allows for an even layer of paper to be deposited/collected on the screen before it is lifted and place to dry. Before being taken from the water and put to dry, this is also the time where petals and leaves can be added to the pulp to make the final product more interesting.
The pulp put to dry on the screens is essentially cellulose in a mushy state. As the pulp on the screen lies in the sun drying, the water evaporates and the cellulose become the ‘glue’ that holds together the tiny bits of pulp. So when the drying is finished the sheet of paper can be easily lifted from the screen it was drying on.
The screens are made with bamboos tied together in a rectangular shape and with a mesh fixed on across it to provide the resting place for the pulp when lifted. When the pulp is dry the sheets are collected and the screens used again and again. The screens are made in standard sizes easy to handle by one person.
The end product – the sheets of paper – are then used to make cards, as wrapping, or to make boxes.
We have various samples of mulberry paper for sales in our Crafts of the World Online Shop.
Take a look – if nothing else to have an idea of the end product, production of which has been described in this blog.

 

Friday, 4 January 2013

On the history of BAG

Where do handbags originate from?

Types of Prehistoric bagsTypes of Prehistoric bags

Handbags have been essential to mankind since prehistoric times to carry items and have been recorded in fashion history for a very long time.
The purpose of a bag is to carry precious or useful around even though the items have changed over time. We find mention of such an item first in written literature of the 14th century; however the Egyptian hieroglyphs papyrus show pouches carried around the waist. Bags were attached to "girdles", an item of female underwear, and fastened to the waist. The bags were enriched with Embroidery and jewels and demonstrated the social status of the wearer - the more elaborate the bag, the higher and richer the person that carried it.
In the 16th century, handbags became more practical and were made with the use of everyday materials, i.e. leather and fastener at the top with a drawstring. At the same time, travellers’ bags, made with cloth and larger than normal bags were made and were carried diagonally across the body. In the 17th century bags and small purses became more fashionable both for women and men. Embroidery was becoming fashionable among young girls and this saw the rise in beautiful stitched artwork used on handbags.
In the 18th century, women started to wear less underclothing. Wearing a purse could ruin the look of the clothes and ladies started carrying their handbags. These were called reticules.
Type of Reticule
Type of Reticule

Women had a different bag for every occasion and fashion magazine argued on the proper way to carry them. Reticules were used to carry rouge (lipstick), face powder, a fan, a small bottle of scent or perfume, visiting cards, smelling salts, dance/appointment card.
The term "handbag" was first used in the early 1900 and generally referred to a hand-held luggage bag usually carried by men. This inspired for new bags that became popular with women.
In the 1920's a fashion revolution saw shortening hemlines and lighter item of clothing. Bags no longer needed to match the outfit worn and it became fashionable for rich women to carry a doll dressed exactly like themselves, complete with matching bag.
With the 1940's clothing and handbags suffered the all around effect of the war. Metal frames, zips, leather, mirrors were all in short supply and manufacturers used plastic and wood instead. In the 1950's designer houses like Chanel and Louis Vuitton started to see a rise in importance and with the 1960's the hippy and youth culture overtook the old classical styles.
60's/70s bag
60's/70s bag
 
Is there future in the handbag?
Of course! Fashion fads, new textures, materials and perhaps shapes will come and go. Some of the ‘classics’ will stay, like the Chanels and the Louis Vuittons, however in my opinion the bag or handbag is here to stay whatever we will come to call it.